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The Jim Whittaker Story

Jim Whittaker's story

Jim Whittaker discovered a love for adventure, the outdoors and climbing in his teens. He, along and his twin brother, Lou, learned the basics of climbing in West Seattle. At 14, they made their first real climb on “The Tooth” a 5,605-foot tall rock in Washington State’s Cascade Range.

They were active in “The Mountaineer’s Club” and, by the age of 21, Mount Rainier became their training ground for becoming reputable climbers, guides and rescuers. Both brothers were invited on the National Geographic Society sponsored Everest climb in 1963, however only Jim was able to make the attempt.

Jim spent 20 minutes atop the highest point on earth. His life changed forever once he came down the mountain.

As part of the first American expedition to summit Everest in 1963, Jim and his teammates were invited to the White House to be presented with the National Geographic Society’s highest honor, the Hubbard Medal. John F. Kennedy presented the award.

This experience allowed Jim to begin a lifelong friendship with the Kennedy family, and in particular, Bobby Kennedy. Following John F. Kennedy’s assassination, Whittaker led Bobby Kennedy on a trek up the Canadian mountain named for the fallen president.

Jim went on to become CEO of one of the country’s largest outdoor retailers, Recreational Equipment, Inc. (REI). In September 1978, he focused on climbing K2, the second tallest mountain in the world, and arguably a harder mountain to climb than Everest. He would lead the first successful American team to summit that mountain.

In 1990, Jim brought together climbers from the U.S., USSR and China to pursue the Everest Peace Climb. The goal was to place Soviet, Chinese, and American climbers on top of the world together, demonstrating what could be achieved through friendship and cooperation—a sort of “Summit meeting”on the summit, which preceded the fall of the Berlin Wall. Not only did this expedition put twenty climbers on the summit, it also hauled off more than two tons of trash left by previous expeditions.

At 78, Jim isn’t your typical retiree or grandpa. "I'm a little slower than I used to be, but I've got to keep moving. I have to stay active," Jim said.

About two years ago, Jim wasn’t surprised to learn that his adventure-filled life had contributed to the development of severe knee osteoarthritis. The man who climbed mountains found he “had to use one leg at a time to go up the stairs. And it hurt!”

That’s when Jim knew he had to do something. After all, “who wants to drag a leg up the stairs?” Jim spoke with an orthopaedic surgeon, Dr. Kevin Auld, about his options.

Jim’s surgeon chose an implant called a Sigma® RP-F Knee, which is designed to bend and rotate, move back and forth, and flex and extend. The Sigma RP-F also allows for deep knee flexion, something other implants aren't designed to do. This implant is available exclusively through DePuy Orthopaedics, Inc.

Jim’s surgery to replace both of his knees went very well. During his recovery, Jim worked very hard at his rehabilitation. “I was really motivated. I’ve always treasured my mobility and I knew I’d have to work hard with my physical therapy exercises. It was totally worth it. Now I’m able to pursue activities again, except without the pain.”

Today, Jim and his wife, photographer Dianne Roberts, enjoy their active lifestyle, including hiking over snowfields in Antarctica with millions of penguins, through rainforests in Canada’s Great Bear wilderness area, and along the beaches of Puget Sound—not to mention standing comfortably at social events and Jim’s many speaking engagements.

“I was really motivated to do something about my knee pain because I’ve always treasured my mobility. Now I feel as if I never had a knee problem.”

As with any medical treatment, individual results may vary. Only an orthopaedic surgeon can determine whether an orthopaedic implant is an appropriate course of treatment. There are potential risks, and recovery takes time. The performance of the new joint depends on weight, activity level, age and other factors.

Last Updated: 02/24/2008

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